GENESIS PLUS-GENERAL DIRECTIONS including GRAPE SWEATSHIRT JACKET

GALLERY: GENESIS PLUS - SECTION 1-GRAPE SWEATSHIRT JACKET, PAGE 1


General directions and Step-By-Step for the Grape Sweatshirt Base Jacket


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Grape Sweatshirt Base Jacket. 


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Stash of materials and trims to start.

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Cut off ribbings...



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Trim so uniform and even.

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Cut out extra layer in the center back neck. 

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Slash into or close to seam at aides, sleeves and where sleeves attach to the sweatshirt. 


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Cut front from back at natural shoulder line.  
No audio needed. 


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Cut other shoulder seam identicallto the first. 

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Lay Sleeve pieces wrong sides together and cut Sleeve pattern.  Read more in the booklet.... 


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Clip mark the DOTS above the notches on Sleeves, Front and Back

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How much length is available at the side seam? 

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Fold down neckline at center front to achieve the V neckline desired.   


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Even off the lower hemline of the Front.

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Slash along fold at center Fronts.

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Compare to see how much length is available on Back at the side seam.  



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Measure Front side seam. 

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Measure what is available at side seam for length in Back. 

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Achieve needed length at side seam by
scooting pattern piece up.  
A yoke will be cut of polar fleece....



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Consult written directions.

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Even off the lower edge of the Back. 

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Now the sides are equal!


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Cutting a fill-in yoke.  

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Stay top of sweatshirt with Straight Fusible Stay Tape. 

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Overlap to stitch. 


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Trim excess.

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Stay the Front shoulder seams. 

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Back shoulder seam is longer that Front on purpose - ease it into the Front. 


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A tuck in the lower Back can improve fit and add interest. 

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Pin fit at side seams.

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Make sides the same by using what you cut off one side as a template for cutting off the remaining side.  


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Take the cut off amounts back to the pattern pieces to make the next jacket easier to fit! 

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Cut back at Fronts - consult the printed booklet. 

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Turn up hem allowances. 


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Shaped back hemline calls for a dart at center Back. 

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Snip to mark stitching lines for dart.

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Mark equidistant hem allowance.  The Chakoner and the 5-in-1 Sliding Gauge are my favorites. 


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Use tissue to design fabric embellishment.

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Fussy Cut pieces looking at the print.  

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Interface, stitch and press seam allowances open for front edge of fabric Front Bands. 


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Seams at an edge are less likely to stretch than folds.

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Consult printed booklet

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Use 1" bias tape maker to make turned edge trim. 


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Front fabric embellishment is worked out like this on my jacket.  Read/listen for design principles to guide you.

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Stay underneath the planned fabrics with Straight Fusible Stay Tape. 

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Design plan for Back needs to harmonize with that of the Front. 


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Back cut in one piece, and others will be placed over the top. 

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Working out back design 

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Bird's eye view to see harmonization over the shoulders. 

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Consult printed booklet.   


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Trim each side of stitching to 1/4" so 1/2" wide total. 

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After roughed up with Fabric Chenille brush, looks like this...


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Comparing sides of the Fabric Fur.


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Yarn choices. 

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VERY IMPORTANT!! Do not pull the fabric fur or yarn too tight.  It must lie in a 1:1 ratio - be sure to listen! 



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Attach fabric THEN couch yarn.  Two steps.  Braiding foot can be helpful. 


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THINK to decide logical order so edges are properly tucked. 

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Tuck tails using Chibi Darning Needle.   



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Snip yarns from the inside.   



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Checking overall progress and design.

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Attaching free motion stitching with monofilament thread. 


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My free motions stitching on the back yoke.


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Create Back yoke lining.  Fuse lower edge with Vilene - a fine fusing tape. 
No audio


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Cut Front yoke lining.

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With linings free, stitch shoulder seams, easing Back into Front.


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Press should seams open.

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Finish shoulder seams of linings. 


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Clip into seam allowance at hem FOLD line. 


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Fuse Knit Fusible Stay Tape to hem allowance. 

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Stitch the date at a pointed center back hem allowance. 











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Stitched dart at center back appears as shown.   


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Twin needle stitch the hem, stopping at the front embellishment instead of stitching through it. 

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Carefully trim excess hem allowance above stitching. 



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Setting the sleeve.  Watch my YouTube on this Polish technique.  

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Side seams press towards back.  Sleeve seams press towards front so bulk is balanced under the arm.  

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Turn under end of Fabric Fur as apply to Back. 


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Press angle into Front Band to align with angle of yoke fabric embellishment.  

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Cut this angle on both the Knit Front Band and the Fabric Front Band. 

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Stitch together, clipping stitching at seam of the length of the Fabric Band, and breaking the stitching at that point too.     


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Press seam down, towards Fabric Band so that the heavier Knit Band doesn't bend on itself. 

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 Embellish seam on outside with couching yarn as shown. 

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Carefully align this seam embellishment with that of the yoke.  


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Pin right side of Band to WRONG side of jacket. 

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Lay in 1:1 ratio around back of neck.  Place a pin at 2/3 of this distance.  

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Consult printed directions.  



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Fuse Straight Fusible Stay Tape along non-stretched fold edges on the inside.  

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Press seam towards the FrontBand.  I LOVE the Oliso irons. 

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Consult printed booklet. 



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Outside of Front Band flips into place on the outside of the jacket. 

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Grade the seam allowance as shown and explained. 

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Press Front Band up level with finished jacket hem. 


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Stitch on pressed line. 

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Trim corner of the 2 seam allowances.  

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Stitch lower edge of knit Front Band side in similar fashion.  


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Consult printed booklet. 

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Clip seam allowance at cuff turn back level.

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Angle stitch the underarm seam in the hem allowance as shown.  Remove original stitching.   


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Consult printed booklet. 

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Press cuff fabric away from Sleeve. 

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Press fabric around the lower seam allowance. 


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Stitch in ditch. 

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Turn under top edge on inside of Sleeve. 

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Hand hem. 


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Finished cuff.

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Couch yarn over stitching on turn back portion of cuffs.










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